If you haven’t yet, read Part 1 of this little adventure
Jajce – The cute town in Central Bosnia, unexpectedly won me over. We randomly decided to go there, and after the struggle with Bosnian roads, we discovered this sweet little gem.
Should you decide to go there, here’s what you can do:
Shop For Cheap
Jay waited for me in the store where the Bosnian-speaking Chinese man works, hooked up with the latest fake Nike shirt, fake Adidas hoodie and a pair of socks (no name). I had to get a jacket. The jacket that I bought was size XXXXL. Because that’s what I am to Asians apparently – XXXXL.
My jacket for fat giants and Jay’s latest trends in the video-store-owners-community clothing came all together to like 30 CAD, so we rejoiced.
Get Your Nails Done Then Feed The Stray Dogs
I had to get my nails done too, so I walked to the place I found online. The lady said hi to me from a window but I had no clue how to get through to her apartment/nail salon. I mean she doesn’t live there, but it is in an apartment building.
The reality of the situation first hit me when I saw a building still completely torn from the war next to hers. I mean bullet holes here and there aren’t that scary (you mostly don’t think about it) but this was completely, in lack of a better term, fucked.
I guess to them it’s an everyday sight, but to me it was really sad to see the remains of this brutal, un-necessary conflict fought by young men for the ideals of old men in sitting in comfy chairs and sipping whiskey, playing chess with the lives of us all.
That’s where Bosnia first broke my heart. Jajce was the place the former Yugoslavia was founded in, and it’s the place where its death is so clear to see. It still stands divided, but so far it’s peaceful.
Well, back to nails, I found Renata.
Eat Everything + Gain Weight
Or should I say Renata found me? Not in the gay romantic sense, she literally had to find me so I can make my way up there.
My nails got done, I made a new friend, had a nice strong Bosnian coffee, smoked a good cigarette and headed my way to back to Jay using that sick Jajce city wi-fi (seriously impressed by this). Jay fed every stray dog in the city and now had a gang of stray dogs – one was pregnant, and it was called the bicycle by the locals. Then we had Blackie and Whitey … not a lot of effort was put into these names. Imagine if our parents named us after what they first see. I’d be called Hairy. I had a lot of hair as a baby. What would you be called?
I went to buy a Bosnian cheese pita (In Croatia called cheese burek, but Bosnians are very sensitive about it not being burek, but pita, and then we wonder why we had a war, we can’t agree on a piece of pastry). I had a bite of this deliciousness and was surrounded by Jay’s gang of stray dogs. They smelled weakness, and I fed them my cheese pita/burek,
I was still hungry (we fed all our food to the dogs) so we went to a place called Dea (not Drug Enforcement Agency; although this is how you will remember it) for some traditional Cevapi and all that fun Bosnian meat.
My God it all tastes so good but the scale went up really fast, so be prepared.
Enjoy The History or Be Terriefied By It (Maybe Both)
I was surprised to find out about all the history of this cute small town. It starts with the fortress I mentioned earlier, where the first Bosnian king lived. You can read on it here.
Walk around the city and you’ll see all the history. From the 14th century fortress and catacombs to the bullet holes from the war in the 1990s.
Don’t worry, the war is long over, but the wounds are there as reminders to everyone.
Jajce used to be a city with a hospital, a financial center for the nearby towns and with a population of 45, 000 people.
Today, it stands at 25, 000 and most of the landmarks have been destroyed by the war.
See The Waterfall
Jajce has a waterfall in the middle of the town.
You can walk, jog or plan world domination next to it for free.
If you want to get under it, it will cost you 2 USD, which is embarrassingly cheap.
You can buy your souvenirs there as well as have lunch at one of the nearby restaurants that will cost you about 20 USD for two people (with drinks).
All and all, Jajce is an affordable town worth visiting.
The locals are really proud, eager to help and show where they live!
We spent this ideal day in Jajce sheltered from all the realities that life in Bosnia can bring.
We fell in love with Bosnia that day, but she quickly hurt us the next.
Stay tuned for Part 3 – When Jay and I get lost in the mountain and get in a really nasty situation.